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Maintaining your own
Swimming Pool
EDITOR'S COMMENT: Details for this section were provided by John Gray of
Benitachell.
This part is a comprehensive guide for those who intend to maintain their
own pools and the hints and tips are provided in an easy to understand
format.
PROFILE
- John Gray was born in Swindon and is the son of a baker. Most of his
early career was spent managing public houses in the West End of London.
He settled in the Costa Blanca in 1987 and began running his own
restaurant on Moraira seafront.
In 1990 he finally "retired"
from the hostelry business and embarked on what he refers to as his "last
business venture".
John successfully sat the
entrance exam and has been accepted as a member of ATEP (The Spanish
Association of Pool Technicians).
Now, after 15 years and well
into his 60's (although he won't say how well) he has no plans for finally
retiring. Apart from pool cleaning and maintenance contracts John provides
a trouble-shooting service and all repairs, replacements etc.
The Equipment:You would need a telescopic pole
with flexible tube and vacuum-sweeper and brush attachments.
The two piece telescopic poles are long enough to just reach across a
5'00 wide pool and it could also be an advantage to have another single
length for brushing the sides and steps without having to switch from
vacuum to brush attachment continually.
The vacuum heads come in various widths and two basic types.
Flexible
- which really help by getting into the curved corners as they bend
at several points.
Ridged
- there is no point in having a bendy one if the edges on your pool
are square!
A note-book
is quite important as this will provide a continual record.
A net on a pole for fishing out
leaves etc.
Suitable Clothing: An old pair of
trainers and a track-suit bottom are recommended because splashing
chemicals is almost impossible to avoid.
Measuring jugs and cut down plastic bottles
for different amounts of chemicals. You will need kitchen scales to
weigh some powders and granules, on a once-only basis, and mark the
container.
The Chemicals:Chlorine-based plans are the cheapest and
easiest solution for most domestic pools. Bromine is an option if you
prefer not to swim in chlorinated water but it costs slightly more and
not as easy to use as chlorine.
Assuming that you intend to use chlorine-based sanitizers you have a
choice between combi-tablets or the individual elements.
Basically chlorine works in 2 ways -
At the normal
dose (1 - 4 ppm) it combines
with (but does not remove bather waste and debris). It also damages
the cell structure of algae so that it cannot reproduce (but does not
remove the dead/non-fertile bodies.
At a higher
dose (at least 10 ppm) the debris,
which has combined with the chlorine, in oxidised (burned up) and
converted to chlorine, oxygen and nitrogen gasses which disappear into
the air.
This process is called
super-chlorination or shocking,
is really the key to an efficient chlorine system and
resolves/prevents 95% of all pool problems. I would go as far as
saying that, if the water cannot be kept perfectly with regular
shocking (or cannot be recovered from green or turbid) then there is a
problem with the filtration plant or a serious bather overload or
abuse.
You can also shock with oxygen (see below).
Keeping things as simple as possible the
normal range of products are -
200 Gram Tablets
(pastillas): These are for placing in the skimmer basket. They are
designed to dissolve slowly and maintain a regular chlorine level in
the pool and also produce the stabilising agent (Cyanuric Acid) so
that the chlorine is not removed by UV-light (sunshine).
Clarifier or
Flocculent (Floculante) Granules: Much of the debris in your pool
will be microscopic and pass straight through the filter sand. The
flocculent draws these tiny particles together so that they become
large enough to be filtered out.
Algaecide Liquid
(Algaecida): As explained above, chlorine is not a very potent
killer of algae so it need a little help. There are various types of
algaecide and the copper-based ones are the cheapest.
The copper has a tendency to come out of solution, stain the tiles and
turn blonde hair green. Therefore don't be tempted to buy crude copper
sulphate. Use a CHELATED COPPER-BASED PRODUCT. The chelating process
stabilises the copper so that it stays dissolved in the water. It will
cost a little more but you will use very little (2 litres for a 50,000
litre pool).
AS AN ALTERNATIVE to the three items mentioned above the
combi-tablets contain the chlorine, algaecide and flocculants.
Is this a valid alternative to using the three elements separately? As
a professional I have no use for combi-tablets and they are certainly
more expensive.
However, from talking to pool owners who use them, I have had no
reports of problems.
Slow-action granules
(cloro lento en granules): These are for raising the stabilised
chlorine level quickly, without waiting for the tablets to dissolve
and also produce the stabilising agent (Cyanuric Acid).
Liquid
Chlorine(cloro liquido).
This is used to temporarily raise the chlorine level, (super-chlorination
or shocking). The liquid works
within a few hours and disappears quicker than the granules mentioned
below. It is also cheaper - but nasty stuff to transport by car! AS AN
ALTERNATIVE -
Quick-action granules
Sodium Dichloroisocyanurate (Cloro rapido en granules). Although
it does work for
super-chlorination, it is not
recommended for use on a regular basis. Basically, if the dose is
high, it could take daysfor the chlorine level to fall (making
swimming unpleasant) and it produces the stabiliser (Cyanuric Acid).
OXONE (Monopersulfate Compound)
This will shock the a pool in 30
minutes even in strong sunlight (so swimming can commence quickly),
without chlorine and without adding cyanuric acid. Oxone is normally
sold in single-dose bags (for 50 or 60,000 litre pools). It is clean,
efficient but costs considerably more than liquid chlorine.
Cyanuric Acid plays an important part in the chlorine system
because it protects from UV- light and allows the chlorine to remain
long enough to do the job. All chlorine products (except liquid)
contain cyanuric acid and with normal water changeover (due to
backwashing, splashing out or leakage) prevents the level from
becoming too high.
If you use too much stabilised chlorine the level could build up and
eventually becomes so high that the chlorine is "locked" and does not
work at all.
Another reason for Super-Chlorination:
The principle objections to using chlorine-based products for
sanitation is the chlorine smell on skin and clothes and irritation to
eyes and other delicate tissue.
Believe it or not but chlorine at the correct level, and with the
water properly balanced, has no detectable smell and is not an
irritant!.
However, whilst the normal dose of chlorine is doing its work it is
only able to kill the bacteria, algae and other waste and combine with
the residue (nitrates and ammonia) to form Chloramines and it is these
little devils that cause the smell and irritation.
Without going deeply into the chemistry what happens is that after a
while the combined chlorine builds up but your simple test
kit only shows you the total chlorinei.e. the sum: free
chlorine+combined chlorine Apart from
causing smells and irritation, combined chlorine has a very poor
sanitising effect.
Raising the dose of chlorine temporarily causes these nitrates and
ammonia to be broken down thereby freeing up the combined chlorine and
it is recommended that this super-chlorination is carried out on a
regular basis.
A
simple test kit to provide the pH and total chlorine (free and
combined). If you have a basic understanding of chemistry and really
want to get involved there are are range of other test-kits which
provide more "in-depth" analysis of the water.
pH minus -to reduce the pH reading. A simple, cheap solution for this is
dilute Hydrochloric Acid (sulfumant) but there are other, less
unpleasant (but more costly) products.
pH plus - to increase the pH reading.
Baking powder or sodium carbonate (soda ash) are simple, cheap
solutions and easy to store and handle.
The ANNUAL Quantities
Required for a 50,000 to 60,000 litre pool (8 x 4 to 9 X 5). The quantities suggested depend on a
variety of different circumstances e.g. light or heavy usage (small
family or rented villa), condition of tile grouting, efficiency of the
motor and filter, age of the water etc.
Remember that it is not so much a case of adding a certain amount on a
regular basis but more testing, observing and deciding how much to add
of each product.
25 Kgs (100) Tablets
(Combi or Plain Chlorine): You would need around 3 per week for
the Summer 6 months and 1 per week for the winter. The is the major
item and a 1 x 25 kg drum is the most economical way to buy and last a
full year as long as you keep the drums sealed whilst not in use.
5 Kgs Flocculent:
As long as you don't have any problems (such as continuous turbidity
or algae attack this would suffice.
Best to have stock even if you opted for the Combi-tablets.
2 litres Algaecide:
Would be more than enough for 2 treatments. Once again it is always
best to have around in case of problems.
Chlorine for
Shocking: If you decide on the Sodium Dichloroisocyanurate granules
you would need 10 Kgs (for 10 shockings), alternatively - 3 x
20 litres Liquid Chlorine (sufficient
for 12 shockings).
Simple Test Kit:
There are several brands on the market, all work well and the
indicator chemicals should last a full year. These can be purchased
separately.
2x 2.5 litres Ph minus
(Sulfumant). You would probably need around 1/4 to 1/2 litre of
Hydrochloric Acid each week and the shelf life is long. The 2.5 litre
bottles are the most economical.
5
kgs Ph plus (Sodium
Bicarbonate or Soda Ash): You would
only needs this if your pool became acidic (e.g. due to acid rain or
the "little ones" urinating in the pool) or to increase the Total
Alkalinity.
NB:
It is quite difficult to estimate pH
adjustment on an annual basis but you should always have supplies at
hand. To balance the TA you may
need either Sodium Bicarbonate, Soda Ash or Sulfumant in quite
large quantities so it might be best to
read the following section "Decide on a Regular Routine".
Buying your Supplies
Economically: Decide on your requirements and purchase the largest
quantity you can afford (with due regard to shelf-life) - this is the
most economical way.
Many suppliers provide packaged lots e.g. Starter Pack, Six Month Pack,
Full Year Pack etc.
One of the best I know of is the CB Clean "6 x 2 Pack". You annual
requirements are estimated and supplies delivered (and paid for) in 2
lots. The price includes delivery and 2 FREE Total Alkalinity Checks. Please support this web page by, at least, checking out one of the
sponsors who advertise here.
Decide
on a Regular Routine:It is best not to simply rush out,
buy equipment and start cleaning your pool. The following schedule is
based on the routine carried out by professional pool maintenance
technicians for a typical private pool with moderate use i.e. not a
community or public pool nor one that is available for renting.
Seasonal Tasks: These are best carried out 3 times a
year to coincide with the start of warm weather (i.e. when more that
occasional "short dips" will occur, half-way through the bathing
season and at the start of the winter.
Let us say March, July and November.
Clean the
Pump-house - that goes without
saying!
The Filter
Sand should be checked at least once
a year by taking off the lid, and topping up to the correct level.
The sand should be completely changed periodically but this depends
on several factors (e.g. filter/pool size, bather load etc.) 3 to 5
years is the normal life unless a problem occurs meanwhile.
Pipes and
Connections should be check for leaks
and rectified if necessary.
The Skimmer
Flap should be checked to ensure that
it floats up and down easily and does not jam - ease it, if
necessary, with a file or waterproof sandpaper.
If its gone AWOL then fit another.
The Pump
should be checked. Generally an
electric pool-pump is not serviceable and should be recycled when it
wears out.
If it is making a noise or there is excessive vibration, a simple
bearing change could prolong it's life.
The
Multi-position Valve, Other Valves and Leaf-filter
should be checked for ease of use and lubricated with silicon
(non-petroleum) grease.
Electrical
Equipment should be checked for
obvious faults - badly fitting door, loose or bare wires etc. It is
also a wise precaution to test the earth-leak trip (Diferencial) by
pressing the test button.
Make sure that the under-water lights work and that the wires and
connections, in and out, of the transformer are tight and there is
no sign of overheating or burned insulation - a common problem!
Warning
Signs. There should be a sign
indicating the water depth, at either end, and a sign saying that
diving is dangerous (if this is the case).
I know that this sounds unnecessary for private pools but it is
vital if the property is rented. The fact is that if a tenant is
daft enough to dive into the shallow end and break his neck or a
non-swimmer drowns in the deep end then the person responsible can
be sued for damages for not having the signs in place - and I have
personal experience of such a case.
The
Time-switch should be altered,
according to the season, and the time set correctly. The actual
filtration time depends on bather load, equipment efficiency, pool
location and condition of the tiling.
Algaecide
- Add the recommended amount at the
start and half-way stages.
Water Health
and Total Alkalinity Balance.
and should be carried out at least twice (better 3 times) a year.
This cannot be carried out with a Simple Test Kit.
There are professional kits available
which are quite expensive and not recommended unless you have some
knowledge of basic chemistry.
Most pool supply shops provide a water testing service and some
chemical suppliers provide a free service to regular customers.
You need to supply a sample (min. 1/2 litre) in a clean bottle and
delivered within 1 hour. The test should comprise -
1. Total Alkalinity and
recommendations for correct water balance. This is one of the most
important tasks of all if you want a trouble-free pool.
2. Cyanuric Acid and TDH
(Totally Dissolved Solids) content in ppm (parts per million) and
water replacement requirements to restore the correct level (if
necessary). These tests are only necessary if you have an ongoing
problem. The retardant agent (Cyanuric Acid) can build up to the
level that all chlorine is locked up or there can be an excessive
build-up of extraneous dissolved matter that the chlorine ceases to
work.
This situation is quite rare as a large amount of water is replaced
annually due to splashing, backwashing and evaporation.
Note down
everything and keep the note-book
somewhere indoors out of the damp. You could have a problem, in a
couple of years, and want to know, for example, when the filter sand
was last changed or the pump overhauled.
Regular Tasks -
These involve vacuum sweeping and/or
checking and adding chemicals. The frequency varies from season to
season and depends on a variety of factors e.g. bather load,
efficiency of pump and filter, condition of tiling, exposure to the
wind, tree close by etc.
Generally less frequent tasks are required in the winter (1 or 2 times
a month, or even less if the pool is covered). Once or twice weekly
tasks are required in the swimming season.
This can be described as 3
separate tasks done individually or combined together as required. Often
this depends on the actual condition of the pool and its water. Whatever,
it is always best to keep a careful note as tendencies can be established.
This helps with problem diagnosis and early detection.
A model form is provided - please click here. You should always keep a
log. Even if you have a photographic memory you might want a second
opinion, from you pool chemical supplier, if something goes wrong
The tasks are as follows -
Check the values
with your Simple Test Kit.Take the
sample from a depth exceeding 50 cms, add the drops, cap the kit, shake
it and read the values quickly. Decide if you need to add chlorine.
Although the test kit my show 0.6 to 1.2 ppm as being ideal this may not
be the case. Generally 2.0 to 3.0 ppm is required in the hot weather.
Very busy pools may even need 4.0 - 5.0. Although such a high level is
not recommended by the Authorities, you cannot let the pool go green or
put bathers at risk. You would, most certainly have to replace the chlorine tablets.
Look at the last reading on your chart and decide if you need more or
less than the last time. If the chlorine reading is very low you need to
get it up quickly and add tablets to keep it there.
To raise the stabilised chlorine
level quickly you need to add slow granules. If you don't have any you
can smash up tablets so that they dissolve quickly - but watch out for
your eyes!
Decide if you need to adjust the pH -
always remember that -
A high pH needs pH Minus,
shows pink on your test kit
(sulfumant - acid)
Alow pH needs pH Plus,
shows yellow on your test
kit (Bicarbonate of Soda or Soda
Ash - alkaline).
Generally you would need to add pH minus. If the pH is low then
something untoward has happened! If you have little ones bathing then
they may be pee-ing in the water, otherwise something else has got into
your pool. NB: Never add pH adjusters if you haveadjusted for Total Alkalinity - wait two weeks for the water to
settle down.
Look at the water condition. If
you know your pool you should be able to detect deterioration of water
quality. Don't wait until it starts to become turbid. If it looses its
sparkle you might need to super-chlorinate with liquid chlorine.
You certainly need to add a handful of flocculent into the skimmer and
leave the filter on overnight. NB:Always add any chlorine
first and then the flocculant.
If anything else seems to be wrong decide on the remedy.
Sweeping and Vacuuming.If you cannot see any dust or debris
there is no point in vacuum sweeping. You could still brush the sides
and you may see clouds coming off but you won't be able to vacuum this
up until it settles. If it is just the case of a few leaves then remove
them with the net.
Unless you are an absolute novice this process needs no explanation.
However there is a blow-by-blow description below.
Super-Chlorination.
This is recommended daily in public pools and monthly in private pools.
For pools with heavy bather load (i.e. rental villas) fortnightly (or
even weekly) is advisable. In case of doubt (for example if you have 10
persons regularly bathing in an 8 x 4 pool) then do it every week as the
cost and effort are minimal - remember, regular
super-chlorination resolves 90% of all pool problems!
I cannot stress how important this is. If
you have any doubt then just try it once (preferably with liquid
chlorine). Even if it looked good before you should notice the
difference. After super-chlorination the water will literally sparkle.
Every trace of chlorine smell will be gone and the water will be
wholesome and healthy.
The process is as follows -
The task must be carried out as late in
the day as possible, best after sun-set, and care should be exercised
by bathers until at least 2 hours after sun-rise
the following day due to the high level of chlorine.
Carry out all other task first
(sweeping, brushing etc.) and set the pump to manual and the
multi-valve to filtration.
If the stabilised chlorine is low then
add slow-action granules the bring the level up to normal but do not
put any tablets into the skimmer.
Add fast-action granules (into the
skimmer) or (better) pour liquid chlorine or oxone (into the return
jet stream) then add a handful of flocculent into the skimmer.
Watch what happens - as a matter of
interest! If the water turns milky in a few minutes then your pool
really needed that shocking.
The following morning (after 30 minutes
with Oxone) the pool should be sparkling clear. You must return the
time-clock to automatic and add tablets to the skimmer. If the
chlorine level is still very high don't worry as the sunlight will
lower the level in a few hours - if you have used liquid.
If you plan to sweep the walls then do
this first. - If the walls are filthy you won't be able to see the
bottom so wait until it settles - come back in a few hours.
Put the hose-pipe in to start topping-up.
You will be backwashing the filter at least twice!
Go into the pump-house and backwash the
filter.
Switch the pump off.
Move the multi-position valve (MPV) to
Backwash (Lavar).
Open the waste valve (if you have one).
Close the skimmer valve (skimer).
Make sure that the bottom drain valve
is open (fondo).
Run the motor until the glass vial
begins to clear - if you back-wash until it is completely clear you
are wasting water.
Stop the pump.
Move the MPV to rinse (aclarar).
Run the pump for 10 seconds.
Switch the motor off
and then -
Set up for the
vacuum sweeping.
Place the pole in the water,
progressively sink the tube (to get rid of all the air) and plug into
the skimmer or hover point.
If you sweep via the skimmer take the tube over the top. Never plug in
through the skimmer as this could damage the flap.
IF YOU HAVE A
HOOVER POINT open this valve and close
all of the others except the return jet valve. IF YOU SWEEP VIA THE SKIMMER -
just have the skimmer and return jet valves open.
Set the MPV to filter (filtracion) and
start the motor.
now you can -
Sweep the Pool.
It is usually best to start at the shallow end, as you will be working
downhill. However, if the pool is really dirty you could raise so much
dust that you will be unable to see the bottom. Perhaps you should be
sweeping to waste? See below.
If the vacuum stops picking up and/or you see dust coming back through
the return jets then you need to run the backwash process (as described
above).
If this happens continually you may need to sweep to waste (as described
below) or perhaps there is a problem with the MPV or the sand. If you
suspect that this is the case you can still sweep to waste but you need
to get the problem fixed.
now you need to -
Return the
system to normal.
Unplug the hose.
Run the backwash procedure (described
above).
Open the return jets and bottom drain
valves. Close the waste and vacuum point valves (if you have them).
Set the MPV to filtration. Take
care not to forget this - otherwise you will empty the pool!
D.
Sweeping the Pool to Waste
The process is exactly the same except (see 6. Set up for the vacuum
sweeping) -
The MPV is in the
waste position (desagüe).
The return jet
valve is CLOSED.
The waste valve
(if you have one) is OPEN.
The hoover point
valve or the skimmer valve is open (as the case may be).
All other valves
are closed.
No backwashing is
required because the water goes straight to waste without passing
through the filter.
The pool level
will drop fairly quickly. If you sweep via the skimmer then air may be
sucked into the joint between the hose and the plug (this should be
taped up anyway). To resolve the problem leave the hosepipe running
into the skimmer.
Best of luck with
your pool and I hope that I have been able to help!
If you
do have problems then your pool chemical supplier should help out.
I would recommend
that you get your supplies from as
their products are first-rate and they provide a good backup.
If you have problems they provide a free water health-check and recommend
the solution - which usually works.
After this, if the problem persists, it is probably a fault with the plant
or equipment and they send someone like me out to test everything.
I do
provide a diagnosis service myself (but there is a call-out charge). If
you have any breakdowns, pumps, filters, valves, sand changes etc. then I
can attend to these matters promptly.
I also
provide long term pool maintenance and cleaning but only in the Javea to
Benissa coastal area.
provides the finest range of swimming pool chemicals and maintenance products on
the Costa Blanca. 
PROFILE
- John Gray was born in Swindon and is the son of a baker. Most of his
early career was spent managing public houses in the West End of London.
He settled in the Costa Blanca in 1987 and began running his own
restaurant on Moraira seafront.