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GREEN WATER OR OTHER SIGNS OF ALGAE? |
Add copper-based (chelated) or other algaecide (If not recently added). You can overdo the algecide, either its either there or not. Great care should be taken with non-chelated algaecides as they can cause staining of the pool grouting and green hair. | |||
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STEP 1. TEST CHLORINE! |
Test Total and Combined Chlorine. You can
only do this with a DPD Test Kit! VERY IMPORTANT - If you have a problem, accurate measurement of the Chlorine (especially the Combined) is very important. DPD tests around 5 ppm are not reliable (they could be 10 or more). The solution is to dilute the pool water with 50% bottled (not tap) water and multiply the result by 2. Then, if it is still around 5, test with 1 part pool and 3 parts tap and multiply by 4. Calculate both the Free Chlorine and Combined this way. |
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STEP 2 . RESOLVE TOTAL CHLORINE |
Here a lot depends on how you have decided
to maintain your chlorine. In most places the legal limit is 1.6 ppm
(Free) 0.5 (Combined) = 2.1 (Total) - which is fine if the pool is visited
every day, the bathers behave sensibly and it is regularly shocked.
However, you are probably aiming at 4 ppm - ESPECIALLY IF THE POOL IS
GIVING PROBLEMS! Whatever you decided, adjust the TOTAL CHLORINE as below - this would probably be the way you always do it! |
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| LOW? | NORMAL? | HIGH? | ||
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Add Trichlor Granules (LENTO) to restore
Total Chlorine. Add 1 more tablet then previous visit. |
No need to
add LENTO. Add same tablets as last visit |
Add nothing at all until the level drops. | ||
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STEP 3. RESOLVE COMBINED CHLORINE |
If you have 0.5 ppm Combined Chlorine (hardly noticeable on the test kit comparator) you have to get rid of it. There are 2 ways of doing this. Don't even think about using Tri- or Dichlor - you will make things even worse! | |||
| SHOCK WITH SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE (Liquid Chlor) | SHOCK WITH MONOPERSULPHATE (OXONE) | |||
| Add at least 10 times the Combined Chlorine (minimum 10 ppm). This is 5 litres in a 50,000 litre pool. Superchlorination should take place after sunset and the pool should not be used until the level has dropped. | Add at least 10 times the Combined Chlorine (minimum 10 ppm). This is 600 grs in a 50,000 litre pool. Shocking with MPS can take place at any time and swimming can resume within 30 minutes. Another advantage with MPS is that you can get a quick reading and then add your chlorine - often saves a visit. | |||
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STEP 4. CHECK CALCIUM HARDNESS TOTAL ALKALINITY & pH |
These three are closely linked. You can
forget about the Calcium unless you suspect that something is wrong i.e.
you are in a soft water area or the pool has been filled or topped up via
a water softener. If this proves to be the case you need to add Calcium. The Total Alkalinity is the key to everything. Get that right first THEN adjust the pH. The Total Alkalinity should be between 80 and 120 ppm - Best 100! Follow the instructions provided by the Test Kit. |
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| HIGH - above 120 ppm? | LOW - Below 80 ppm? | |||
| Add Muratic Acid (Sulfumant). The liquid acid must be added in a single column, in the deepest part of the pool, with the filter off for 30 minutes. If you don't do it this way you will only lower the pH and not the CH completely. |
If the pool has a tendency to a HIGH pH use
Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Powder). If the tendency is a LOW pH use Sodium Carbonate (Soda Ash). |
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STEP 5. CHECK CUANURIC ACID |
A certain amount of Cyanuric acid is vital
for a Chlorinated pool as it prevents the Chlorine from "gassing-out"
under strong sunlight. Too much can cause "chlorine lock". ALL solid chlorine products contain cyanuric acid. If you use a lot of TriClor Tabs and Grans and/or never shock and/or the pool is fairly watertight (any combination of these three) you could end up with chlorine lock. Ideally you should have 50 to 100 ppm. Chlorine lock occurs somewhere between 100 and 150 but depends a lot on other chemicals in the pool (the TDS). |
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| UNDER 25 ppm? | 50 - 100 ppm? | OVER 100 ppm? | ||
| This could
cause a problem and can happen if the pool leaks severely (a lot of
topping up). ADD CMA to 25ppm |
You are OK
- CMA is not the problem!a |
a) Partly drain the pool, or - b) Switch to Bromine. c) If neither a) nor b) are possible or already Bromine you may find that regular shocking with MPS will resolve the problem until you can drain. At last using MPS with Bromine ensures that no more CMA goes in. |
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STEP 6. START CLEARING PROCESS |
Hoover the pool carefully to waste is there is any dust or debris. This might not be possible if you cannot see the bottom. Backwash the filter, add a handful of Floc Granules to the skimmer and set the filter filter on manual. | |||
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STEP 6. CONTINUE CLEARING PROCESS |
After approx. 12 hours, thoroughly backwash and repeat the clearing process. Continue until the water is clear. | |||
| STEP 8. OTHER REMEDIES |
Check the (Totally Dissolved Solids) TDS.
You would need an electronic meter to do this. There is a great difference
of opinion about how high this can go and a lot depends on TDS are
composed of. Normal tap water is usually no higher than 250 ppm. Most
pools have more than TWICE this amount and it is considered that problems
start between 1,000 and 1,500. It is generally thought that the TDS
surrounds the debris and protects it from the sanitizer. There is no point in checking the TDS until the pool has been thoroughly filtered and, if you suspect that high TDS is causing the problem then the only solution to partial (or total) draiing of the water. |
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| STEP 9. THE INQUEST |
Even after you have recovered the pool water
there still remains the risk that it will happen again. Therefore you need
to try to find (and remedy) the cause. If there was nothing found to be wrong with the Water Chemistry, perhaps it was bather abuse, is under control or won't happen again. Perhaps there is something wrong with the purification plant (low sand level, partly blocked impellor etc.) |
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